The Allure of Emeralds - The More Flaws the Better?

The Allure of Emeralds

Emeralds have captivated people for centuries, celebrated for their brilliant green color and unmatched elegance. Valued by rulers and admired across different cultures, these gemstones are often associated with growth, renewal, and prosperity. Their vibrant hue, caused by trace elements like chromium and vanadium, gives them a distinctive appeal, making them a preferred choice for everything from engagement rings to standout jewelry pieces. Beyond their beauty, emeralds carry a rich legacy, often linked to wisdom, insight, and ancient legends. Though more delicate than many other gemstones, their rarity and striking appearance ensure they remain highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike.

 

Flawed Emeralds

Inclusions in emeralds form as a natural result of the gemstone's growth process deep within the Earth's crust. Emeralds are created under intense heat and pressure, often in environments where tectonic activity causes fractures in the surrounding rock. 

As this process unfolds, mineral impurities, fluids, and gases present in the surrounding rock can become trapped within the growing crystal. These trapped substances form inclusions, which may appear as tiny fractures, liquid-filled cavities, or even small crystals of other minerals. The geological activity that facilitates emerald formation also increases the likelihood of inclusions, making them a characteristic feature of most emeralds. While inclusions may seem like imperfections, they are often embraced as hallmarks of authenticity, with some creating unique internal patterns that enhance the gem's character and beauty.

Close look at a flawed emerald paste gem used in costume jewellery

Famous Emeralds

 

The Mogul Emerald

A remarkable emerald weighing 217.8 carats, dating back to 1695. This gem is inscribed with Islamic prayers and intricate floral designs, reflecting its historical significance during the Mughal Empire.

The Cambridge Emeralds

 A collection of emeralds originally owned by the Duke of Cambridge and later incorporated into various royal jewels, including Queen Mary's famous tiara, now worn by the British royal family.

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emerald Necklace

A striking emerald and diamond necklace gifted to Elizabeth Taylor by Richard Burton, featuring large, intensely coloured emeralds. It was part of her legendary jewellery collection.

Creating an Emerald for Costume Jewellery

Creating a paste version of an emerald for costume jewelry involves crafting a gemstone imitation using glass or synthetic materials to replicate the appearance of a natural emerald. Here's how the process typically works:

1. Selecting the Base Material 

High-quality glass or a synthetic material like lead glass is chosen as the base. This material is selected for its ability to mimic the brilliance and clarity of a gemstone.

 

2. Coloring the Material 

To achieve the characteristic green hue of emeralds, metallic oxides (such as chromium or vanadium) or dyes are added to the molten glass. The precise mix and concentration determine the vibrancy and depth of the green colour.

 

3. Melting and Shaping  

The coloured glass is melted in a furnace at high temperatures. Once molten, the material is poured into molds or allowed to cool into a rough shape that can later be cut and polished.

 

4. Cutting and Faceting 

After cooling, the paste gem is cut into desired shapes, such as emerald cuts or oval cabochons, using specialized tools. Facets are meticulously created to mimic the way light reflects in a natural emerald.

 

5. Polishing 

The cut stone is polished to achieve a smooth, glossy surface that enhances its brilliance and transparency. This step ensures the paste gem closely resembles the lustre of a real emerald.

 

Introducing Flaws to Form Perfection

Adding inclusions to mimic a natural emerald involves introducing imperfections intentionally during the creation of a synthetic or paste emerald. These inclusions replicate the characteristic internal features of natural emeralds, such as fractures, fluid-filled cavities, or mineral particles. Here's how this is achieved:

 

1. Introducing Air Bubbles  

During the melting process of the glass or synthetic material, controlled air bubbles can be introduced. These mimic the gaseous inclusions often seen in natural emeralds. The size and distribution of bubbles are carefully managed to ensure a realistic appearance.

 

2. Adding Foreign Particles  

Small particles of other minerals or materials are embedded within the paste or synthetic emerald. These particles replicate the crystalline inclusions found in natural emeralds, such as pyrite or calcite.

 

3. Creating Internal Fractures  

After the synthetic emerald has solidified, controlled thermal or mechanical stress can be applied to create internal fractures. For example, rapidly cooling the material after heating it can induce cracks similar to those formed during natural geological processes.

 

4. Simulating Liquid Inclusions  

To mimic fluid-filled cavities, tiny pockets are created during the formation of the synthetic material, and these are sometimes filled with a transparent or slightly coloured liquid. These inclusions mimic the "jardin" (garden) effect, a term used to describe the moss-like patterns in natural emeralds caused by fluid inclusions.

People often regard a flawed emerald as equally beautiful as a flawless diamond. Despite the presence of inclusions, an emerald can remain captivating and hold significant value.